enigma-2

What made you select paint over a vinyl wrap for the engine cover? Do you feel paint will hold up inasmuch as it's so flexible? What did you use for the chrome accents? (Car is excellent, by the way).

You send off to Blackstone?

Understood. Just never seen a battery at or near its 'as manufactured' rating. Thinking you may have an 850 CCA rated battery installed. But I'm only guessing.

Let's revolt. Let's "brake" the rules and force Papa Smerf Let's revolt. Let's "brake" the rules and force Papa Smerf to bow to our combined wills. ?

I have this model as well. You can also test your charging system using this equipment. If memory serves (been awhile) you connect it, switch to charging system testing and start your engine. I'm curious as to why your getting 839 CCA on a battery rated as 800 CCA. I've never seen a battery showing a higher charge than its rating.

If you have it tested, make certain they test the CCA rating, not the voltage. I use a Solar BA7 and wife's car battery is acting up. Checked and it showed 12.6 volts but only 182 CCAs (new it rated 650 CCAs). Gets a new battery week after next. That 12.6 volts can drop to 9 volts after starting due to low capacity and these electronic modules throw a hissy fit on low voltage.

He mentioned he hit the "auto" button. Believe he has the auto climate control system. Tmaf901, the resister is located on (or near) the motor (needs air over for cooling). However if you have an auto climate control system, (you mentioned that you hit the "auto" button, not present in a manual system) there is no resistor pack. It's all done through the control module. If you have a manual system, the resistor pack failed as WWWPerfA_ZNOW stated. (Nothing else can cause this). If you have the auto system, the hvac electronic module had a hiccup. (On an auto climate system, one 'possible' cause is a weak vehicle battery. Do you make short trips when you drive? Short trips don't properly recharge the battery properly). When the battery gets weak, the voltage runs low and these modules are sensitive to low voltage. If not short trips, its possible it's just getting worn out from age/use. Or, the module got passed off that day and decided to go on strike. Happens.

The usual reason is they only warrant their tires if sold and installed by an authorized dealer. Buy from Amazon or other discount outlet and they will refuse to honor their warranty. Fairly common way to protect their dealer network.

May be useful if you gave more specific details such as year, etc.

It's fairly easy to change, here's a YouTube video showing how https://youtu.be/xS2h_3zBMFw

Probably the strap holding the sensor to the hub broke (I had this happen). Allows the sensor to slap against the inside of the wheel. With me, the tire balance was of periodically and a thumping sound came and went. This was a NAPA branded strap the dealer installed, as Motorcraft out of stock. (Replacement wheel, had to replace strap but used original sensor). I'd recommend you ONLY consider Motorcraft as a replacement.

As it's rented, you may be required to have the original exhaust equipment replaced when turning back in. It’s in your contract. Dealer will do an inspection, if he doesn't catch it (probably will) the loan company's inspection probably will. They will send you a bill if they do it and make the appropriate markup.

Well that doesn't sound normal. Codes may be erased when car shut off. Maybe a code reader you can plug in right after it occurs again? I have a Bluetooth reader plugged in that I can read while driving. I sometimes get "oops" codes. You know, where it throws a code and you look it up and it reads "my bad, I thought I had an error but that was an error" code. ?

If it happens again, you could try resetting the hvac module. Hold down the climate control power button and the defrost button at the same time, release then press the climate control power button one more time and that will reset your heater. Unrelated to the problem, but how long has it been since you changed your cabin air filter?

My prayers are for those who lost loved ones and those who suffered loss in the tornadoes last night. So much disaster for those in Arkansas, Illinois, Kentucky, Mississippi, Missouri and Tennessee. Especially those who lost everything in Eastern Kentucky. Feel deeply for your loss.

One way to extend their life is to wipe the rubber parts with an alcohol wipe to remove the grime; then treat with 303 Automotive Protectant. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0185PU38A/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_DWEWESH3MHHATHJGYE3H

You probably added two years to your battery's life by adding water to those cells. Also remember to clean the top of the battery. Even a thin film of residue dried acid-water residue can cause a trickle discharge to occur in hot climates. I doubt the corrosion had much effect as it only affect the resistance unless it forms between the connection. Corrosion under the connection doesn't cause a resistance in and of itself. But it would probably work its way into the connection eventually so best to remove. Consider adding "anti corrosion washers" under the connection to prevent in the future. (Or an anti corrosion grease like "super lube"). Coke Cola is good for removing corrosion (acidic). So is lemon juice.

I think its normal to drop out of overdrive when going uphill. Are you certain that its not the road grade causing the overdrive to turn off?

Tell them you drove through deep water. Ford's service requires fluid change in PTU and differential when driven through deep water. (Its in the maintenance manual). If they still panic about changing fluid when Ford doesn't have a support procedure, tell them they can pump out the old fluid using the same pump used to change the differential fluid. I think I paid $80 in September at local Lincoln dealer.

Probably won't get any codes as they clear when you shut the car off. This has happened to others. In most cases it was traced to defective throttle body or throttle position switch. One guy reported the car restated after off/on like yours. Dealer found no codes, told him to bring in when happening. Next time it happened he had it towed while running (couldn't drive it). Dealer traced to throttle body (code 2111 on invoice). No problems after replacing throttle body (7 years).

Kind of sounds like a tss/oss sensor failure.

Don't know how its done in the modern cars, years ago when they were developing the electric drive, they moderated power by "pulsing" (turning the current on and off quickly) the current through the controller (or was it the contactor?) and motor. They had to limit the maximum current to prevent the motor and controller from overheating and burning out. It also dialed back the length of time the current was "on" based on how hot the controller was getting. (Full acceleration would make the controller and motor super hot very quickly). By dialing the current back it slowed the rate at which the components continued to heat.

Sounds silly, but must be asked, anything covering the light sensor on the top of the instrument panel?

Ebay

Forget. 6, 7 years. Possibly 8. Problem is, wife only drives short trips. Gets replaced 12/21 along with "The Works". Been sitting on a CTEK for several days. Went through all 8 steps, took awhile but completed ok.