enigma-2

You might consider contacting your local dealer to see what (if any) seat reclinning modifications are available. Ford offers a wide range of structural and nonstructural options for persons with disabilities. Its possible that one of the seat options they offer might be a modified reclining seatback.

Did the shop check the power steering system? Perhaps a PS flush. (Because it resets when you restart the car, eliminates brake rotors and bearings). As you just bought the car, check to make certain the the plugs have been changed (overdo), tranny drained and refilled and coolant changed.

Possibly the lane kerping system informing you that it just mad a lane correction.

English Duece. Care to translate this?

First pull the codes. There are several trouble codes associated with the instrument cluster and with so many feeds into the IC its impossible to guesstimate stuff out. When it next happens, try "wiggling" the key in the ignition switch. Fuse #27 feeds through the ig switch to the IC. Possible bad contact in the ig sw. Also check fuses #26 & #29 for corrosion. Both feed the IC. Grounds (power and logic) and difficult to get to and you'll need electrical schematics to find them. ?Pull the codes?

You have probably already done a through search and come up dry. Because of this, I'd recommend contacting a dealer on ebay thats selling the module and see if they have the LED bulbs. (Doubt they would list the item and they never burn out and no one needs them). Bet they will be able to come through for you. Try this guy for starters: https://www.ebay.com/itm/164294491227

You will get an audible tone if the lane keeping cannot maintain due to lack of lane markings and automaticallyturns off. (Page 221 of owners manual). Lane keeping only works with cruise control when you have stop &go turned on.

We had two of these accompany us on a recon insert into the Ashaw Valley. Engaged and they came along my door gunners position, fired rockets. Could have sweared theh came to a complete stop midair when he missle released. Had to swing the 50 away to avoid hitting them. So glad they were with us.

On mine, it sounded like gear noise. Kind of a whirring sound. New one is completely quiet. If you can hear it, be suspicious Ford garage found the PTU was spitting out black goo during an oil change. New unit installed under extended warranty.

As she drives so many miles once a month, you might consider purchasing an extended warranty. (One side Bennie is free road service for tire replacement, battery jump and 10 gallons of gas should she run out. Also free tow to nearest Ford dealership should she have a breakdown).

If the tread isn't perfectly centered on a tire it will cause this. Tire manufacturers test each tire for balance and tracking. The best go to OEM (less lead weights needed in balancing) everytning else goes to aftermarket.

Before you begin, pull the codes. This isn't a normal situation and the car should be sitting codes. Theres basically only two parts that could be the cause (inasmuch as you have replaced the fans, twice). 1. The fan control module. I assume your mechanic replaced the module along with the fan assemblies. If not I'd suspect the module. 2. PCM. Try a reset. Disconnect the negative battery terminal and leave it disconnected for at least 20 minutes to allow the PCM to drain (internal capacitors). Once you restart, the PCM will relearn your car.

Area rep says its all good. (As long as you do a full acid flush and rinse).

Possibly this:

Talk about the blower first. The blower on a manual system gets its power from fuse F63 in the battery Junction box. Runs to the blower motor relay then to thr blower motor. The ground for the motor is found through two sources. On high speed, its grounded through the switch. (If its intermittent on high there's three possibilities. The fuse is intermittent, the relay is not holding under load, the motor is failing or the switch is defective). On mid-high or mid-low it first passes through resistors in the resistor pack. On low it's passes through all of the resistors and is always on low unless a higher speed is selected. The blower relay is triggered by the HVAC module. I would test the black wire at the blower to see if voltage is constant. If it is, it's the blower, or switch. If it is not, fuse 63, the relay or the HVAC module. (Relay power comes through fuse F45 in the smart junctiln box, another possibility.) I'd also look at the conbectors for corrosion. As for the compressor, there's no common point and you need to pull codes to determine where to start. Do NOT add more refrigerant. You can do real harm if you do know what you're doing. {Start with the codes}.

Welcome! I was at the lical Ford/Lincoln dealer last week looking at a black 20 (what the had on the showroom floor). Loved to have seen the red. What options / packages did you get?

7I'm following up on this. Called Lincoln and got the local service manager involved. They also brought in the Ford Area Aervice rep. They sent me a copy of the most current PTI for the 2009 MKX dated 08/23/2030 showing that new yellow is spec'd as a replacement for original gold and green. (This was specific to the 2009 Lincoln MKX). Area service rep (out of Michigan) wasn't certain if the other bulletin (the one 1004ron attached) and will check with Ford Engineering tomorrow. Local dealer did use a full flush and cleaner (acid base) and distilled water so I doubt that there would be any negative reaction, but we'll see what Ford Engineering says. Thanks for adding the bulletin, you stired up a real fuss going all the way to Ford Enginereing.

I'm certain they drained, flushed and refilled with the new yellow coolant. As I had the "other" yellow in my mkx, makes me wonder if they made a mistake? Believe I'll drop by and show them this pdf. Edit, I looked up the original coolant and it was gold. Wonder if it wouldn't be a good idea to put a label on the coolant bottle indicating that the coolant has been changed to tbe new yellow?

Does pass-to-flash work?

May wish to keep looking. https://tiredeets.com/uniroyal-tiger-paw-touring-review/

"Do not use saddle soap or baby wipes as they contain materials that dry out leather seats. Try to avoid materials that contain acids and salts too, as they will destroy the leather seats and make them rough. Use leather cleaners and conditioners that are specifically formulated for use with leather seats." https://www.autos.com/car-maintenance/how-to-clean-leather-car-seats-without-ruining-them Baby wipes contain: water, aloe vera juice, caprylyl glycol, malic acid, sodium benzoate, sodium citrate, coco-betaine & polysorbate 20 (dissolve oils and fats into water).

Try a HVAC reset first. Press the climate control button, the defrost button and the power button at the same time. then press the climate control button again and it should be reset.

Yea, I know. But asked several questions (talked to two different service agent, mgr) and got basically same answer. New coolant is universal, not same ad old stuff and is the only coolant Ford recommends. Only coolant they stock. Next time you're into your local dealer, ask them about this. (This dealer has been fairly good in the past). Anyway, they did switch me over the new stuff. Cost enough. Said they did a full flush. Seems I read somewhere (may have been in another forum) where someone else was switched over to the new stuff, and was questioning it.

⁸It really sounds like the HVAC control module is suspect. (A failing module may be spitting bad info onto the HS-CAN causing all the error codes. Theory but only thing I could think of).I don't have 2011 schematics but looked at the 2010.

Only thing i can think of is, the fan is cycling on and off, causing the alternator to load the unload, which causes the enging to speed up or down, which puts more power into the drive train. Thus, the car tries to speed up, but the breaks (evil grin) are holding the car. Think of it like your stepping on tbe brakes and step on ghe accelerator. The front end will raise up. Let off and it drops again. Do this over and over and the car will seem to rock.