Cerberus Posted February 2 Report Share Posted February 2 The day before yesterday, i finally hunted down the UPS guy and got my Alternator, left work early yesterday and dove into the job. Its definitely a PITA job, primarily because I was working on jack stands and a lift would have definitely made it easier. I basically got it done in 4 hours but spent another 2 finding my gauge set, vacuum pump, cans of R134a and doing the evac / refill One interesting thing; the alternator itself was fine, but the overrun clutch was freewheeling, so it could not drive the rotor to generate power. I'm debating whether I should return it for the core charge or put a new overrun clutch on it, and put it on the shelf for future uses 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enigma-2 Posted February 3 Report Share Posted February 3 17 hours ago, Cerberus said: I'm debating whether I should return it for the core charge or put a new overrun clutch on it, and put it on the shelf for future uses Definitely send it back for the core refund. Fixing the old unit involves pouring more money into it and then it sits on a shelf for .... years? Your tying up $$ and still ending up with a possibility a unit that doesn't fit a future engine. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TourGuide Posted March 16 Report Share Posted March 16 Replaced the original battery with a new AGM and completed the bms reset - which I did using both the light flash/brake and also with my scan tool. I was down to about 390 cca. I managed to also drop a 7mm socket down the grill shroud. It did not kindly drop through to the garage floor - instead it plinko-style made it's way down into the shielding in the engine compartment. No amount of looking with my scope turned it up - the thing is down there somewhere. I hope it won't turn into a projectile at some point. I also installed a JL oil separator. That was easy enough but managed to throw a CEL when I forgot to plug in the MAF sensor. So that was my pants-brick moment there. I wish the socket were as easily solved as that was. Now I need a soda. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cerberus Posted March 17 Report Share Posted March 17 On 2/3/2024 at 10:59 AM, enigma-2 said: Definitely send it back for the core refund. Fixing the old unit involves pouring more money into it and then it sits on a shelf for .... years? Your tying up $$ and still ending up with a possibility a unit that doesn't fit a future engine. my idea to hold on to it was predicated on a couple considerations, like having a $400 alternator($800 according to the dealer) capable of 14v@200A for random generation purposes.. Also, according to the core return policy, the core needed to be returned in the original box, and the box needed to be in undamaged condition. The problem with that is that the snout of the new overrun pulley had damaged the motocraft box in shipment (which does not give the me warm fuzzies btw).. so strictly speaking it was a gamble if it would be eligible for core charge refund. luckily they (RockAuto) did refund the core charge And I've been keeping an eye on the voltage & current output & battery SOC to see if the new overrun clutch is slipping. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lildisco Posted March 17 Report Share Posted March 17 3 times drain & fill on our 2016 SEL Fwd 2.0 w/ 69,083 miles. 2nd time we've done it on the 2016. Got anywhere between 4 & 4.5 quarts out each time. This time we used Valvoline Maxlife instead of OEM 🤞 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TourGuide Posted March 18 Report Share Posted March 18 Also turned into an Amsoil acolyte as I purchased my 'annual membership' so I can get the discount. Just when I thought I was done with Sam's Club - Costco membership 🤷♂️ they get me with a great product. Also - the battery swap really drove home why you need a well maintained battery to me. My start-stop function has returned to normal - so there is that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lildisco Posted March 18 Report Share Posted March 18 1 hour ago, TourGuide said: Also - the battery swap really drove home why you need a well maintained battery to me. My start-stop function has returned to normal - so there is that. I don't have much to back this up, but my start-stop wasn't working for months stating that it was disabled for vehicle charging. I even threw it on the battery charger for a few days & it still wouldn't work. I went into FORScan & reset the BMS & my start-stop function has returned to normal. The car would sit for days on the charger & the start-stop function wouldn't work, even when the charger would indicate that it's in trickle mode, aka fully charged. Figured I'd need to drive it around more, so I'd unhook it & go for a couple hours drive at highway speeds & it still wouldn't work. Got curious & went into FORScan & did a BMS reset & it's back to normal. As I said earlier, I don't have much to support this, but I think that the BMS lies. It was almost 3 years to the day that I purchased our 2020, (10/2020) when the start-stop feature quit due to vehicle charging. I reset the BMS in January & it's been fine ever since 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TourGuide Posted March 18 Report Share Posted March 18 Hmm - it never occurred to me that the bms may be fibbing. I thought that was the domain of my local dealership service department almost exclusively. I got some feedback about my battery cca at my most recent oil change (which was included in my purchase - don't get me started there) so I put the battery on my tester - and low and behold it was low - at the cca stated. So my battery at least was on the way out. I have heard from some ford techs that it also matters where you hook up to charge (outside the bms sensor) so that the change is registered by the sensor. I do suppose that resetting the sensor would effectively accomplish the same thing as long as the battery was brought up to charge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Haz Posted March 18 Report Share Posted March 18 Edge Workshop Manual sections on 2.0L & 2.7L EcoBoost Charging Systems, Battery Load Shed, and Generator Specifications... Charging System - 2.0L EcoBoost - System Operation and Component Description - 2020 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Charging System - 2.7L EcoBoost - System Operation and Component Description - 2020 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Battery Load Shed - Description and Operation - 2020 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Generator and Regulator - Specifications - 2020 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim W. AZ Posted March 22 Report Share Posted March 22 I dusted it off, cleaned the glass, blew out the engine compartment and applied silicon spray to the rubber door and hood gaskets. I started siliconing the rubber when I lived in Minnesota so the doors wouldn't freeze in winter, now I live in the desert so I do it to keep them from drying out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lildisco Posted March 31 Report Share Posted March 31 (edited) I've noticed a weird grove developing in my drivers side rear rotor. Took everything apart & cleaned & lubed everything. I probably could have paid someone to resurface both the pad & rotor, but it ~$150 for a new set of pads & rotors for the rear, so I just replaced them. Both sets were centric premiums & centric pads, so maybe something wedged between it & I didn't catch it. Relatively painless repair, took more time to find my rear caliper tool than anything.I've noticed a weird grove developing in my drivers side rear rotor. Took everything apart & cleaned & lubed everything last week, but no change. I probably could have paid someone to resurface both the pad & rotor, but it was ~$150 for a new set of pads & rotors for the rear, so I just replaced them. Both sets were centric premium rotors & centric pads, so maybe something wedged between it & I didn't catch it. Relatively painless repair, took more time to find my rear caliper tool than anything. Edited March 31 by lildisco Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PrinzII Posted March 31 Report Share Posted March 31 It's been a while since I've posted anything in here but..... My Edge got hit hard with sap from two trees behind it. It's also drenched in pollen from the same trees. The first time, I literally drenched my SEL in RainX bug and tar remover. I let it dwell overnight to soften the sap. I washed it and got the sap off pretty well. Fast forward to this week......Sap again This time, I have some Meguiar's bug and tar remover to get off the sap. Looks like I'll be drenching the SEL in this stuff......sigh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kruzr1 Posted March 31 Report Share Posted March 31 10 hours ago, lildisco said: I've noticed a weird grove developing in my drivers side rear rotor. Took everything apart & cleaned & lubed everything. I probably could have paid someone to resurface both the pad & rotor, but it ~$150 for a new set of pads & rotors for the rear, so I just replaced them. Both sets were centric premiums & centric pads, so maybe something wedged between it & I didn't catch it. Relatively painless repair, took more time to find my rear caliper tool than anything.I've noticed a weird grove developing in my drivers side rear rotor. Took everything apart & cleaned & lubed everything last week, but no change. I probably could have paid someone to resurface both the pad & rotor, but it was ~$150 for a new set of pads & rotors for the rear, so I just replaced them. Both sets were centric premium rotors & centric pads, so maybe something wedged between it & I didn't catch it. Relatively painless repair, took more time to find my rear caliper tool than anything. I've had this happen on my edge also but not quite as bad. I replaced the rear pads, rotors and hardware last summer. I just noticed it is happening again. Only on the rear drivers side also, sure seems kind of odd. I don't notice anything odd during braking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lildisco Posted March 31 Report Share Posted March 31 2 hours ago, kruzr1 said: I've had this happen on my edge also but not quite as bad. I replaced the rear pads, rotors and hardware last summer. I just noticed it is happening again. Only on the rear drivers side also, sure seems kind of odd. I don't notice anything odd during braking. I'm wondering if some sort of debris from the pads? I've had 4 or 5 sets of these over the years on different vehicles & have never had an issue. Maybe this was just a fluke. Surely it's odd, but relatively cheap repair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garycrist Posted March 31 Report Share Posted March 31 It starts from "hard spots" in the pads. It is from the mixture of materials in the pad material before it is formed and fired or baked. The pad is not homogeneous, but a mixture for an example, steel wool, copper bits for heat extraction a bonding agent baked then glued or riveted to the steel backing plate. As the pads apply, heat is generated in the of a rotor. Cooling differences, will lead to "hot spots" that change the surface hardness in a particular spot leading to irregular wear patterns. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enigma-2 Posted March 31 Report Share Posted March 31 17 hours ago, PrinzII said: It's been a while since I've posted anything in here but..... My Edge got hit hard with sap from two trees behind it. It's also drenched in pollen from the same trees. The first time, I literally drenched my SEL in RainX bug and tar remover. I let it dwell overnight to soften the sap. I washed it and got the sap off pretty well. Fast forward to this week......Sap again This time, I have some Meguiar's bug and tar remover to get off the sap. Looks like I'll be drenching the SEL in this stuff......sigh Think I'd throw on an inexpensive car cover. Easier than bug and tar remover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enigma-2 Posted March 31 Report Share Posted March 31 19 hours ago, lildisco said: I've noticed a weird grove developing in my drivers side rear rotor. Years ago, an old mechanic told me it was caused by metal on the pads/rotors. Asked where it came from, he said it was usually rust from the brake assy. Breaks off and falls on rotor where it's trapped. As it only happened on one wheel, I'd clean off the rust of all parts, when replacing pads/rotors. (As a precaution.) Another mechanic told me that because it had only happened on the right side of my car, must have hit a mud puddle that had sand/dirt in it. The sand splashed up on the brakes, getting stuck on rotor, trapped between pads and rotors. (Pearls of wisdom from grease monkeys) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1004ron Posted March 31 Report Share Posted March 31 (edited) 102,091 miles and first rear brake pads replacement and second transmission fluid drain and fill. Previous transmission drain and fill was at 46,175 miles. Drain and filled the transmission and new rear brake pads. I went with Akebono brake pads that have the mechanical wear indicators, which the original pads did not, and if they had they'd have been screaming. I used my Gerber multi-tool to turn the caliper pistons back in (clockwise), but will get a basic tool before the next pad change in 7 years. Edited March 31 by 1004ron 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garycrist Posted March 31 Report Share Posted March 31 I will bet none of them have ever ground "hot spots" out of a brake drum. Nor, have they ever seen a drum so bad with "spots" they had to be thrown away. Now a lot of aftermarket flywheels have a replaceable or harden areas where the friction material contacts. Some have (flywheels) have grooves (like brake rotors) to get rid if the out-gassing and prevent micro-welding or metal smearing. I have used flywheels as they can represent one of the most extremes as are brake drums. Those grooves in the rotor as well as hot-spots in drum brakes are analogous to "flat-spots" in a tire! Once one puts a flat spot in a tire, no matter the size, every time a lock-up or near lock-up occurs it will almost always hit the flat-spot thus exacerbating the problem. Lastly there just "ain't no space tween that rotor and brake pad"! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enigma-2 Posted April 2 Report Share Posted April 2 On 3/22/2024 at 5:49 PM, Tim W. AZ said: I dusted it off, cleaned the glass, blew out the engine compartment and applied silicon spray to the rubber door and hood gaskets. I started siliconing the rubber when I lived in Minnesota so the doors wouldn't freeze in winter, now I live in the desert so I do it to keep them from drying out. I've used both silicone and 303 in the past. 303 seems to penetrate better, but silicone tends to last longer. What I've learned is to first clean the weather stripping before using protectant. I use alcohol wipes. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garycrist Posted April 2 Report Share Posted April 2 What did I do today? Well it took me 2 days to do what you guys can do in no time. I washed them and dried them off. At least one is black and one is sand-white. The black ST has Ceramic Pro and I've never seen an easier way to wash it. I dry it with a drying towel. Gone are the days of chamois and wringers! With the coating, if the St is not too dirty, I can do an almost water less wash in about 30 minutes, excluding the wheels. The white one, a lot longer, as it needs a clay-bar, buff and wax! But,for over 210K miles, it looks pretty! 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cerberus Posted April 15 Report Share Posted April 15 Oil change Wanted to do the air filters but I received the wrong engine air filter and the cabin air filter was dimensionally abnormal, would not fit in the slot. Don't ignore your cabin air filters.. mine is nasty. New one arriving from Amazon today hopefully. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TourGuide Posted April 15 Report Share Posted April 15 We Edge owners are much luckier than Escape owners when it comes to cabin air filter replacement. Edge filters are a breeze to slip in. I upgraded my cabin filters with Wix multilayer - which do a fantastic job in comparison to oe. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cerberus Posted April 15 Report Share Posted April 15 3 hours ago, TourGuide said: We Edge owners are much luckier than Escape owners when it comes to cabin air filter replacement. Edge filters are a breeze to slip in. I upgraded my cabin filters with Wix multilayer - which do a fantastic job in comparison to oe. i went with this one. Definite upgrade from OEM and for a few bucks cheaper https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07664V1JN 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TourGuide Posted April 16 Report Share Posted April 16 2 hours ago, Cerberus said: i went with this one. Definite upgrade from OEM and for a few bucks cheaper https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07664V1JN That one has the added bonus of the cow flatulence reducer blend built right in. Good call. 👏 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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