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Hi Caden, that is great news! Can you elaborate a bit more on how the wiring needs to be done/modified so that the live in drive functionality of the paddle shifters is activated. I added the wiring from the paddle shifters and can confirm they work and are wired correctly, but only when M(anual) gear is selected with the shifter. They mimic the function of the +- knob which is on the shifter and is only active when in M. I compared and followed the wiring diagrams for Edge Sport 3.7 and Explorer Limited 3.5 and only got this far.   Any further info would be much appreciated.   Thanks. Vlad

This thread will be moved to the trash after a while.

OK, I created the new post, and edited the surviving post so they make a little more sense.  I left a "..." filler where the merged post was.  Thanks!!

Hi all,   As the title indicates, this is NOT the same loud tapping+rattle noise I previously posted about recently in another thread in this forum.  The tapping described in this post only became evident AFTER that noise was fixed.  Given how many people complain about EcoBoost tapping noises, and I've experienced two different varieties, I thought this solution might be worth sharing.  Here's the tapping noise to which I'm referring in this post:  https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QP4IAkaUk_68z3KxZwLQGhBsyfpaeFzx/view?usp=sharing   Anyway, at the time of purchase this engine was pretty quiet for an EcoBoost engine based on the several I've heard.  About 2 months ago the engine very quickly developed a loud tapping noise with some metallic rattling that ultimately was determined to be a failing HPFP (fuel pump) which was replaced by the dealer.  There's an audio of that in my other post if you're interested.  That fixed, the engine still had a loud tapping noise coming from the back driver's side of the engine, so I decided to see if I could pinpoint it with a stethoscope.   Long story not-so-long, everything was pretty quiet, including the intake side cover and the HPFP until I touched the steth to the exhaust-side valve cover at Cylinder #1 (i.e. passenger side) where I heard the tapping noise; however, the injectors are on that side, so I considered those as a potential source.  The noise got louder at Cylinder #2, but when I listened to the cover over #3 & #4 the sound was MUCH louder.  At some point I touched the steth to the high pressure fuel line, and it was the same sound, same frequency, just a whole lot louder in the steth despite being silent to the naked ear.  I thought about that for a couple of days, noticed something the umpteenth time I looked the engine over that I hadn't noticed before, and I formed a hypothesis:  The high pressure fuel line was resonating inside the valve cover.  I wondered what had changed, because again, the engine was quiet before the HPFP replacement. So what had I noticed?  Turns out on this version of the 2.0L the HPFP was moved from the end of the exhaust side to the same end of the intake side, and in this configuration part of the high pressure fuel line passes over the exhaust-side valve cover where it is anchored to the top of the cover using a bracket and a bolt...over the #3 & #4 cylinders.  There's a second bracket on the intake side, but it wasn't noisy there, so I didn't bother.  I removed the exhaust side bolt (and noted it was really easy to loosen), and carefully and barely separated the bracket from the cover, had my GF start the engine, and the loud tapping noise was gone.    I was correct - the fuel line was resonating inside the valve cover.    My final assessment was that whenever the tech replaced the HPFP, he necessarily had to loosen and detach the fuel line brackets, but when he put everything back together, he forgot to torque the exhaust-side bracket bolt.  As it loosened it allowed the bracket and bolt to vibrate at the same frequency as the HPFP fuel line, and that was transferred to and resonated inside the valve cover.  Once I reinstalled the bolt and tightened everything down properly, no vibration, no noise.   So, if for whatever reason you hear a tapping noise resonating from your valve cover, follow the high pressure fuel line, and make sure the bolts used to secure same are torqued tight.  It could be a cheap and easy fix to an annoying, expensive-sounding problem.  

Based on a thread over on FB, it sounds like the recall SW fix is now available.   "My hybrid went in for an oil change and the service advisor told me the recall update just came in today and he will be updating my vehicle." "Just got to work and recall remedy did just come out this morning"

Thanks for the link. Ordered mine tonight for my 2024 Edge. I use computer service tools for work, but decided this was easier for me. There might be other things I'd be tempted to toggle off, but this is the only one that is on my priority list currently.

I would offer two possibilities.    As you suspected, one very real possibility could be that the plastic valve cover is cracked, or the sealant has failed, creating an oil leak that drips into the spark plug wells.    Another, (and more common possibility) is that oil was spilled during a past oil change and pooled in the spark plug well. 

If the wheel is bent, which is causing the leak, then the rim can be straightened.  A good tire shop can either do it or they know a professional who does it.  Doing this, and keeping your current wheels, will save you more money than going to a whole new tire / wheel package in a smaller size.   And, as was already stated, if you think those new wheels will stay looking new, they won't.  Teen drivers, parking lots, curbs, etc. do not mix well.

When I need to get new tires, I always check the tire performance ratings on The Tire Rack.   https://www.tirerack.com/tires/surveyresults/surveydisplay.jsp?type=CSTAS   https://www.tirerack.com/tires/surveyresults/surveydisplay.jsp?type=W&VT=C   These are just for the all weather or snow tires.  Just make sure you read the User Reviews for the same type car.  The other brands / types have no meaning because what works well on one model may not work the same on another model.   I've have always been very satisfied by using these performance models in making tire decisions.  Tire Rack does extensive testing to publish their ratings.

That kit will be good enough to get you to a tire shop but I would not take days to make up your mind where to go.  IIRC, once that sealant is used, you may not be able to re-use that damaged tire.  Has to do with the sealant all over the inside of the tire.   Best option?  Determine the size needed for a spare tire and buy one with a wheel that fits your car.  And remember, spare tires are designed for temporary use, no more than about 50 miles before the tire degrades.  I know people have driven a lot longer than that on a spare tire, but you are taking a chance of perhaps getting into a bad accident because when things go wrong, they go wrong at the wrong at the wrong time in the wrong place.   Murphy's Law of the Universe