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i tend to go with ford/motorcraft parts these days, aftermarket is not so reliable. i did use denso injectors on our 2010 fusion sport and they have been working splendidly.   assuming the work was done correctly, it is possible the fuel rail is contaminated or the fuel itself is. i would have cleaned the fuel rail after taking it out but that's me no one else i know has done this or reported issues without having done so.   seals did you buy them separately? should have come with the injectors. there will be a very slight wiggle since they have a little flex but not much at all. very possibly they are not tight enough. we have had problems with aftermarket seals on tss oss sensors as well.

all the latches are prone to failure except the liftgate, so far.   some have had the passenger front fail some one of the rear ones.   i think ford MAY have a bulletin on the passenger front but not sure.   i have had door jamb issues on other fords but not latches, i agree. but ford heavily upgraded the electronics in 2011, and that led imho to a number of failures not seen in 2007-2010 MYs.   it may be enough to fool the signal wire into thinking the door is always closed, it may not. but people have added a jumper to that wire and been happy with it.

Welcome.   That doesn't make any sense that it's vibrating and loose now, but will only need replacement in the next couple of years !! - who told you that?   There's no one that can predict the mileage to catastrophic failure on a component like that which is showing the signs you describe.    

So I have a 2007 ford edge I just bought and was told it will need a new driveshaft in the next couple years. It vibrates under center counsel. But only when starting off otherwise it drives very smooth...it is loose underneath with much wiggle room...is it okay to drive a long distance?

Today when im at home, I opened the front passenger door then suddenly the door latch decided to stop working on me! Here's a video showing the difference between the front right and left door latches: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/1xulsgyj8zpxrumdh5k5r/VID_20240517_181538.mp4?rlkey=kiune4iqpg1e9xu7uwuhhquzg&dl=0   I thought it could be dirt and gunk making it stuck and not latching, but playing around with it and spraying it with WD40 made no difference at all. My battery is also close to dying so I don't want to mess around with the car anymore unless I get some pointers/ideas on how to get the latch to work again because the lights will continue to stay on for about 10-20 minutes since the door won't stay closed.   I googled this but found no results with my same issue. All I found were people having an issue with the door sensor saying that the door is open even though it's closed, which never happened to me.   I did find a great video showing the entire process for replacing the door latch:     Please tell me there's an easy workaround and that I don't need to do all of that in the video? There's no way im going to tackle this by myself, especially not under a 40c weather. Im afraid of going to the dealer and get shocked by some $200-600 just for labor, then the same amount for the parts. This is also a safety issue and I can't drive the car at all, not even to the dealer.   Why now? Why today? This is very upsetting and it happened in the worst possible time as im in the process of moving to a new place. My car is in a brand-new shape, less than 50K kilometers and I take good care of it and it was never in an accident. I also always park in a closed garage so there's no rain/moisture getting to the car.   Kind of weird breaking on me for no reason at all? I never ever drove/rode/owned a car that had an issue with the door latches. What if this happened while im outside? This is pretty insane and feels like it should get recalled. I never slam my doors and I rarely get passengers on that side.   If someone has an idea of getting that door to stay closed without having to revert to some weird and unsafe way like tying a rope to something inside, please let me know. Im going to be a happy man if I can just get it to safely stay closed for now without needing to open it again anytime soon.

replaced injectors on my 2011 Edge. I removed fuel rail and then individually pushed each injector into each hole, then re-mounted fuel rail, re-connected all the electrical plug ins and put fuel rail back on top, then slid on injector retainer clips and then torqued fuel rail to 8 ft lbs. I also replaced all the plugs at same time. I can;t see any mistakes I made. It is running worse and now pops code P0300 multi cylinder misfire.    All my wiring disconnected are re-connected, double checked that all my coils were plugged in securely before re-assembly.    Wondering if I made a mistake?? How long does fuel pressure take to bleed air out of fuel rail, injectors etc..? Is there a bleed procedure?    When I put in new injectors, they wiggle a little with new o-ring not being as flattened as old ones I pulled out , but i can't see any other way to mount them in their holes securely.    Are replacement injectors duds right out of the gate? Or have I missed something?    thanks for any help.... I am blaming myself yet can't see what I did wrong. i struggle to think the injectors are faulty..but maybe. 

Additional related Workshop Manual PDF documents attached below...   Good luck!   Washer Hose Coupling - General Procedures - 2019 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Washer Hose Repair - General Procedures - 2019 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf

Link to recent Forum discussion on the hood flutter issue.   Good luck!  

I have a 24 Edge SEL.  The drivers side power seat makes a louder noise when going up and down (forward to back seems normal).  It almost sounds like a grinding or vibrating with a clicking sound.  Has anyone had this issue?  Any suggestions on what to do?  Car was brought in for service and they were not able to find any “codes” so there was no resolution.

Good advice. I noticed some flutter on my road trip earlier in the week so we will see if this takes care of that issue as well. I measured the gap and are right in spec, which is very helpful to know.   I had someone use the piece of wood trick on a VW GTi I had years ago. Passenger door wouldn't seal properly along the top...unfortunately, that was only the beginning of the issues with that car.