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Just curious if the vehicle exhibited any of the expected P0715 failure mode management symptoms beyond the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL)...     Good luck!  

FordParts.com lists varied part numbers for the bin-with-hinged-door assembly, based upon Door Color Finish/2020 Vehicle Build Date/Additional Equipment...     Link to the FordParts.com components illustration above, which is zoomable and scrollable in your web browser, shown below edited as isolated view, for clarity...     Good luck!  

Ford Edge owners re-contenting Ford's de-contenting of their vehicles -- Fabulous!   Though, with apologies to Poe's Raven, quoth-ing Ford, "Warrantable?  Nevermore."    Now, onto the documents...   Differences between disassembly steps in the below-attached sections of the 2020 & 2021 Edge Workshop Manuals may provide you the insights you're seeking.   Please note: Some numbered action steps, which apply to their immediately-following illustrations, may appear on the page before their rightful illustration.   We especially look forward to your photos.   Good luck!   Front Controls Interface Module (FCIM) - Removal and Installation - 2020 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Floor Console - Removal and Installation - 2021 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf

filters are a subject of particular interest (hah!) to me everything is a compromise. You have several conflicting parameters to work within, like oil pressure & flow rate, versus engine drag which effects fuel economy. But of course, the required oil flow at a specific viscosity is a non-negotiable value for any given engine, defined by machining tolerances and wear. Pressure requirements are contingent on clearances and load (power stroke) on the bearing to journal mating.  Flow requirements are contingent on how quickly the pressurized journals squirt their cushion out, and back to the pan (which again is influenced by design clearances & wear) You can make a filter that would not let anything over 0.1 micron particulate through it, BUT, you'd never get enough flow to make the pressure to float your bearings unless it had Massive surface area.   The Mann filter does look like it has a lot more surface area but being a cellulose filter media, the pose sizing is highly irregular compared to a woven synthetic filter media, and that irregularity makes for some larger pores (bad for filtration but great for flow) and some tight pores which are arguably wasted filter surface until or unless the large pores are filled up. But is won't crush because it is flowing a lot of (less clean) oil. The primary benefit of synthetic filter media is that a tightly woven synthetic media can have extremely predictable and normalized small pore size which allows for a high level of filtration without being too restrictive to flow rate.  But a heavy oil at high flow rates will still exert a lot of pressure on the media and crush it if it is not well supported.     

I had two of those for my Edge and two for my wife's BMW and after seeing what happened I returned all four to Walmart, even though I agree that the ones for the Ford appear to be more robust, like you have found.   Edit: I notice that the OEM Mann filter doesn't have a cage but appears to have a much greater surface area and the old one I pulled was in good shape - that also makes me question the filtration efficiency of the Fram.  

Hello,   I see some folks have installed the below part so the wireless charger area has a cover as it used to on earlier models. Has anyone done this? Curious what the process is for getting access to install the part. Part Number seems to be KT4B-R044C-16-C    

seems like there should a cage inside to support the media.  most cartridge filters have some kind of a cage inside to protect the filter from being crushed by the pressure differential   I will say that the synthetic media Fram filters for mine (2.7) do have the cage inside to support the media and do not have any crush problem.

We recently acquired a used BMW X5 for my wife (inline 6 with twin-scroll turbo) and the first thing I did was code the auto-stop-start OFF.   You could deselect it but by default it would be active again on next start.

if i am understanding you correctly, you changed the fluid of the first two units at around 30k and then ran them to 90k before they blew up? so you got 60K out of them.. which is longer than I would run them without a fluid change personally, particularly if they are the version that only hold 0.35 quart...    Change the fluid every 30k at least and the 3rd vehicle's PTU will last longer.. unless its just a generation of PTU with a poor build design.   but i do agree, i was not amused by Ford with the captive water pump design on the early 3.5.. that was an expensive lesson. And the salesman I was going to buy a warranty from was not amused by his king ranch needing cam phasers and the price that his own service department gave him..  And i'm definitely not amused by the idea of wet belt driving an oil pump.. 

Agreed. Unless there was an auxiliary oil pump to maintain lubrication, auxiliary water pump to maintain significant coolant flow and a non-wearing (magnetic?) drive for the starter interface, I have not, do not and will not trust auto start / stop systems. And of course, none of those things would even address the starter / alternator / battery workload issue.    The auto start/stop fleet vehicles I work on (Mercedes not Ford) are burning out starters (solenoids mostly) alternators (pulley clutches mostly) and batteries, in 3 years of service and under 40k miles