omar302

Airbag light coming on is NOT normal & NOT associated with an APIM failure. But you did state the you get a battery saving message, maybe it is battery that is shot. With new cars, a bad battery would cause a lot electronics to go haywire.

The broken arms would part of a ~$320 part for each side (post with links to them). they might have quoted for additional parts since they are already working on it. By the way, if you do get it fixed, also replace the rear arms. Compared to the fronts, they are relatively cheap (~$50/- each).

Do you also get the beep sound similar to when touching the controls? or maybe see the fan speed icon in the left bottom corner? This is just to confirm that it might be some grease or dirt causing the control panel to register touches. If that is the case, maybe a thorough cleaning will help. Another stop would be to take of the panel & try to clean it from behind (might need to disassemble it), last thing might be a defective panel. Others might have better ideas.

EBay now has cheap aftermarket cameras for around $60 or less. As for the guidelines, you'd need a dealer to calibrate the camera to get them, or use ForScan with a compatible adapter.

I wouldn't trust that brochure. 1st, they refer to figure 1 as the Ford Escape while it is a Jeep! 2nd, the AWD system used in the Fivehundred/Freestyle was a Haldex unit, not Ford's own system which is used in the Edge.

Check the parts diagram here, it'll give you a clear picture.

Unfortunately it only comes with the rail. https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-lift-channel-7t4z78502c07b/?c=Zz1ib2R5JnM9c3Vucm9vZiZpPUtHMTA1NDU1JnI9MTEmYT1mb3JkJm89ZWRnZSZ5PTIwMTEmdD1saW1pdGVkJmU9My01bC12Ni1nYXM%3D https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-lift-channel-7t4z78502c06b/?c=Zz1ib2R5JnM9c3Vucm9vZiZpPUtHMTA1NDU1JnI9MTEmYT1mb3JkJm89ZWRnZSZ5PTIwMTEmdD1saW1pdGVkJmU9My01bC12Ni1nYXM%3D Edit: An after market solution is now available: http://www.sunroofdoctor.com/2007-2014-Ford-EdgeLincoln-MKX-Sunroof-Guide-Repair-Kit-_p_112.html

If they are the same as the MKX, the whole rear panel pulls out, then disconnect the wiring for the 12v power point to completely remove the panel. Then you'll find that the baby's are held in with screws. I did couple of years ago, so memory might not be that accurate.

Just to be sure, you tried the method linked my posted but it did not work? Also, with the actuator removed, did you try to move the linkage manually? Did the temperature change?

Check this thread & post# 3 in it, might be of help

Add only add to WWWPerfA_ZN0W that with the 2011's IOLM you reset it to any percentage in 10's, so you can select whatever suits you. Each 10% would represent 1000 miles. So if you want a reminder after 4000 miles, reset it to 40%.

When you have the air set on dash vents (towards the face) do both sides don't get heat or only 1 side? Could be a blend door actuator.

What did you set the temperature at? The defrost air will be at a level depending on what you set it at.

There is no problem leaving an IA key fob in the vehicle & locking/unlocking via the keypad. The only security risk is if the intruder finds were the fob is & presses the unlock key which is the same risk if the found the key of a regular ignition vehicle.

He was referring to the 0W-20 Mobile1, not the 5W-20.

I understand your point. This metal sound when starting the engine I used to here it when I first started an engine after an oil change, but those were older cars were also the oil pressure light would also remain on for 1-2 seconds after the 1st start post an oil/filter change. The idea of multi-viscosity oils, as far as I learned, was to cover such scenarios, for a 5W-20 oil, at cold engine startups, cold oil would act as an oil with "5" viscosity grade, then when the oil warms up it will become a "20" level.

The 2K difference matches the difference between a FWD and an AWD. Could it have been a mistake & they showed you an invoice of a FWD then an AWD?

Did you raise the volume on your phone? When connected & on a call on Bluetooth, press the volume up on the phone itself & increase the volume.

They are LEDs, I don't think they are replaceable, need to remove the whole sill to remove the sill plates from behind.

A regular OBDII scanner (at least most of them) would not read codes set by modules other than the PCM (a check engine light). Use ForScan with a compatible adapter to read the codes set the other modules. Also, from my experience with my MKX, the ABS/Trac. Control light sometimes comes on for no apparent reason while disconnecting/connecting the battery or resetting the trouble codes, reseting the codes again or a battery disconnect would clear it immediately or a even an engine/ignition restart does, reading the code while it is lit reveals some sort of miscommunication error (which I think is due to the power being cut-off).

Make sure you get the right one for your Edge, the difference is whether your Edge has the factory tow package or not. Otherwise, the fans are the same for 2011-2014 Edges. Also, I think Dorman now has the fan modules separate, so if that is what's failing, maybe you don't need to replace the whole assembly.

No. Maybe it can be done, but it is not an option that a dealer can dot it.

Anyone here with 200k+ miles got a badge from Ford? https://twitter.com/Ford/status/910149175995781120

Mac, did you try to glue the disc on the old remote first? It worked for me. What is strange is that your unlock button, seems you use it a lot, why not just pull the door handle & utilize the smart keyless entry? On my fob, the remote start button failed, and it is the one I press the most (double click to remote start).

One more "plug", those in need of an APIM replacement could consider upgrading to Sync3, the price difference is surely worth it. Maybe Jason could make us a special forums member prices .