enigma-2

https://youtu.be/tCKHFxGNiBM

Sounds like a diode failed. It's been discussed here before, there is a piece of test equipment that can check both the status of the battery and check the state of the charging system. The meter is a Solar BA7 SOLAR BA7 100-1200 CCA Electronic Battery and System Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015PI7A4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6CwxzbXRPSBK1

Pool, fast cars, motorcycles? New rule, new guy buys the beer. We will ALL be over on Saturday.

An old Pilot sat down in Starbucks and ordered a cup of coffee. As he sat sipping his coffee, a young woman sat down next to him. She turned to the pilot and asked, Are you a real pilot? He replied, Well, I've spent my whole life flying biplanes, Cubs, Aeroncas, Neiuports, flew in WWII in a B-29, and later in the Korean conflict, taught 50 people to fly and gave rides to hundreds, so I guess I am a pilot what about you? She said, Im a lesbian. I spend my whole day thinking about naked women. As soon as I get up in the morning, I think about naked women. When I shower, I think about naked women When I watch TV, I think about naked women. It seems everything makes me think of naked women. The two sat sipping in silence. A little while later, a young man sat down on the other side of the old pilot and asked, Are you a real pilot? He replied, I always thought I was, but I just found out I'm a lesbian.

Car came with a written warranty, does it read any different?

See if this video helps. https://youtu.be/NFzbJHULVDY

My mistake. On my 09 MKX there are a series of dots that effectively block the laser function of the Max 2. Personally I wouldn't want to lose the ability of using the sunvisors.

You can have anyone perform the required service, even yourself, if you follow the written instructions in your owner's manual. For 2016 it reads in part "Carefully following the maintenance schedule helps protect against major repair expenses resulting from neglect or inadequate maintenance and may help to increase the value of your vehicle when you sell or trade it. Keep all receipts for completed maintenance with your vehicle."Remember, it's up to you to prove that you performed the maintenance at the proper time, and that it met Ford's requirements as published in the service manual.

To hell with the hugs and tissues. Sounds to me like you need a couple of Golden Margarita's. ?

After the drain clogged, the water in the housing sometimes starts to turn moldly. Even though you drain the water out, the mold remains. A good product for eliminating any remaining mold is Kool-It. It's cheap and easy to use. Here's where you can find it on Amazon. Lubegard 96030 Kool-It Evaporator and Heater Foam Cleaner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007PHD0S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ehbxzbND266P2 And here's a Youtube video on how to use it. https://youtu.be/Bi22mdXj3wM

Hi Rachel, and welcome. Ebay is the best place to find service manuals, here's one on DVD for $10 http://www.ebay.com/itm/162547729860 and here's a used set of hard copy OEM manuals for $75 + $10 shipping. http://www.ebay.com/itm/232324492429

Anyone notice that they are switching to all-aluminum beds? Ha. Same aluminum beds they criticized Ford for using. The dumped in a loaded toolbox, edge first to show that the toolbox punched a hole in the aluminum bed, but not in their steel bed. Annnnnnnnddddd now their going to aluminum. Heh, heh, heh. "How sweeeeeet it is". (aka Jackie Gleason).

Navigation upgrade runs around $800. Here's a site that can help point you in the right direction. https://www.4dtech.com/11-14-ford-edge-navigation-kit-for-myford-touch-systems/ Two more things, one abut fluids, change the coolant first. (Most important with the 3.5/3.7L engines). If you have AWD have the PTU lubricant drained and replaced as soon as possible. 36k is a good interval (maintenance manual states it doesn't need to be changed, but it's 36k for severe service). Also look for early stages of seal failure after 50k (have service dept check at each oil change). Change seal as soon as a leak detected. If you have around 90k, change the plugs. (Very important). And while you have the manifolds off, change the PVC valve as well.

There's always the aftermarket route. https://www.crutchfield.com/S-Z9Z17SOIOIm/carsystems/Ford-Edge-Stereos-and-Speakers.html

Mounting it near the sun visor will put it behind the coating at the top of the windshield. This will attenuate part of the signal and dramatically shorten tbe reception range.

Someplace else for advertisers to track you.

Congrats on your "new" 11. You are going to love it. I would recommend Weathertech floor mats as a first option. Also need to set up an account on ford owner and check to see if your Sync is up to date. This site will explain how to do this: https://owner.ford.com/how-tos/sync-technology/sync/software-updates/how-to-install-ford-sync-updates-in-your-vehicle.html If you have navigation, you may wish to consider upgrading the map software. Cost is $150. The site can be found here: http://ford.navigation.com/home/en_US/FordNA/USD?utm_medium=oemreferral&ProgramUUID=YIgKCghBOhcAAAFHefQZ9oZe&utm_campaign=Navteq-Partnership&utm_source=Ford-Owners

Yea, my dealer kept telling me that my battery was good. I bought a Solar 9 (thanks again Mac) and it showed low CCA's. Took it back in again with a coupon for a free check and again nothing wrong. Two or three weeks later it died at the grocery store. Like WWWPerfA_ZNOW (that's a mouthfull) said, it's the CCA's, not voltage.

Boy, if I had a nickel for every time I've heard that, .....

Yoy have to use both IA's. But it probably doesn't work for the 14 m/y.

Curious, what was wrong with the original cold air intake?

^Second that. Perhaps the computer just needed to be reset.

I also suspect a weak battery.

Setting a VOM on volts puts the meter in series with the load (measuring current places a shunt in parallel across the load). The "fuse panel" is actually a computerized control module. My 'guess' is you placed a bolted short through the smart junction box (fuse box) and damaged it. I don't know of any way to test it to determine its condition. The failure of the back lighting could be a LED failure, corrosion or a wiring failure. If I'm not mistaken, all the car's back lighting is controlled by one fuse, therefore if any of the back lighting is working, the fuse is good. The feed runs to a single connection point and branches from there. LEDS do wear out over time, voltage spikes, heat, time all play a factor in their life.

I doubt that. Ford does the engineering specification for the struts and bids it out to several vendors. I would imagine the vendor with the lowest price, which still meets their specifications, gets the contract. But I seriously doubt that they are "cheap" (in the usual sense). Each strut is designed for each specific vehicle. Aftermarket has to match a great number of makes, models and designs. Motorcraft is tuned for a specific feel, aftermarket are stiffer because of the diversity they are required to meet. ------ As an unrelated fact while looking up the struts for my MKX, Lincoln specs a different strut for 20" wheels than they do for 18"! That never occurred to me.