enigma-2

How are the tires? (Brand, milage). I had a Sable with Michelin tires where the soft rubber wore off due to milage (20,000-25,000 miles) and had a sound simular due to hard rubber (which they use to get their 50k rating).

Two possible causes come to mind, 1. when replacing the battery you moved a harness and either shorted to conndctor opened one or more pins, breaking the connection to the front controls interface module. Try retracing your steps and wiggle the harnesses you may have moved during the battery change. Or 2, you sparked the battery when reconnecting and sent a voltage spike into the system. I know that CAN networks are supposed to be resistant to spikes, but these are still voltage senstitive components. If you take to the dealer for troubleshooting, believe it has a one hour labor cost. Don't know what the cost to replace is, but you could ask for a rebuilt or remanufactured unit to keep the costs down. (Do you have an extended warranty on the car)?

It's labeled as a PSY24W and appears somewhat identical to a PSX24W. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09N8VDMJ8/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_P2PNFSSXZFZB82X02P01 This is the turn signal bulb RockAuto is showing to fit your 2019. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2019,edge,2.7l+v6+turbocharged,3443235,electrical-bulb+&+socket,turn+signal+lamp+bulb,13675 Looking in the owners manual for the 2019, the front directional bulb is a LED identified a WY21W. Can you post a picture of the bulb? To be certain, you may need to check with your dealer to get the right bulb. I know that my MKX specified specific bulbs and the dealer had to specifically order the bulb. (Of course they were 10x more expensive than the equivalent than aftermarket).

https://www.amazon.com/Ruiandsion-PSY24W-Yellow-Chipsets-Replacement/dp/B08DHT5WVT

Didn't see where it complies with SAE standards (i.e. DOT certified). All Lighting used on motor vehiclrs used over the road myst be DOT certified. Also, FMVSS 108 has requirements about accessory lighting, "S5.1.3No additional lamp, reflective device or other motor vehicle equipment shall be installed that impairs the effectiveness of lighting equipment required by this standard." It's up to local enforcement officers to determine what is and is not "impairment". As far as where to tap in, run a wire to the closest brake light wire. Shouldn’t be difficult, pull a rear tail light assembly, locate the brake lamp bulb, identify the + wire. PROTECT ANY TAP THAT RUNS OUTSIDE THE CAR. If it shorts and you loose your brake lights, YOU can be held responsible for any accidient it causes.

Did you check the RDU?

BMS reset, engine on ,not running Flash brights 5x Step on brake pedal 3x Wait several seconds Battery light will flash 3x indicating reset

Wish I had access to the schematics. I'm trying to find out the purpose for the antenna control module (FR3Z-14D212-C). Thinking its a band pass separator, separating the Siris & broadcast signals, but can't find anything definitive. (This is where the service manual would come in handy). Rather than the antenna, I'm wondering if this could affect signal strength, allowing the Sirius signal but attenuating the broadcast signals. Anyone know the purpose of this module and how it works?

I wonder if the Bendix parking brake may be dragging? Shoes could be frozen and touching or rubbing on the backing plate.

Its possible that the 94.9 is close by and the head unit is receiving the signal directly. (But you'd need to be right across the street from tbe broadcast antenna). I'd pull the radio and check the antenna connection. Try using an ohm meter and see is the circuit is shorted or open. (I feel it's working, one because antenna's rarely fail (after all they're just a length of wire) and, two you're getting strong signal at one frequency). As you're getting some reception, more likely the antenna is feeding signal and the head unit is failing. You say it worked ok once, so most likely its the head unit. (Antenna circuits failing would give poor results across the band. But you would be getting some reception across the spectrum. Usual failure is corrosion at the connector.) Ohm out the antenna circuit. If its ok, your head unit has failed. You can get it serviced for $130 from these folks (add $50 for same day service) https://www.automotivecircuitsolutions.com/products/09-ford-radio-repair (They're are others - just google)

Something like this? Auto Ventshade AVS 20529 Carflector Dark Smoke Hood Shield for 2015-2018 Ford Edge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FMO6GSI/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_YKBTCXAC8B9Q8X10NVM9 I think WeatherTech makes a hood deflector simular to what you want. Don't know if they have one that fits your 2016 edge but dont see any reason they wouldn't.

I have an 09 MKX. To be sure of everything, I'd change all fluids. All fluids age. Includes those areas that are "supposed" to be lifetime, like the PTU and RDU. At 150k, I'd also be looking at new plugs. (Not a big fan of 90k intervals). Have you changed the cabin air filter since you bought the car? How about the seat filters? Have you replaced the fuel tank and air bags?

Please let us know what they find. If it were me, whether the Schrader valves are leaking or not, I'd still ask them to replace them, as the seals harden and leak. (Preventive maintenance).

Do you have an aftermarket remote system? Any electrical modifications done? Any repairs?

Could be low on refrigerant (leak). System designed to shut off when low on refrigerant. Pull codes or take it in to a good shop. Could be any number of things.

You could also consider using a leak detector like this one (only $22 & good for R134A). (If you get it, check the Schrader valves, common point for slow leaks. Rubber O-rings dry out). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088QX7M41/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_EPNQ5YQ5JKKGZHNCM7B7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Try an experiment. Play an existing text message, while it's playing try manually turning up the audio volume on the radio. If this doesn't work, leave it up and try turning up the volume on your iphone. If this doesn't work, upgrade to an Android. {groan}

As you're driving a 2014, I'll bet your bulbs are weak. (All bulbs get weak with use). I found the bulb has a lot to do with seeing. These bulbs dramatically improved my night vision over the OEM bulbs. Rated at 100% over OEM bulbs (Philips also has more powerful bulbs. out now, rated at 130% over OEM, haven't tried them, but probably will next bulb change). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U1OIESK/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_ANGJRG7A83X13W3GD609?psc=1 Recommend you stay away from the Sylvania Silverstars. (Or any other bulb that has a bluish tint. Real waste of money).

My MKX does the same thing. On the drivers side, in the space between the glass and roof, therea space where the bamr rides in a tract. In there, there is a guide that supports an rubber, accordion seal. The guide has a metal insert in the accordion seal, that comes out and "taps" against the metal guide slot. A slight touch is usually all that's necessary to move it and stop the sound. (Irritating in that every little bump maks it vibrate). I've purchased new accordion seals but haven't had time to install them. Think it was originally caused by the accordion seal being deformed when it closed and folded over (rather than compressing), causing it to deform. Probaby dried out and became slightly stiff.

They may not have washed the oil off the rotor on one side. (Prevent rusting in storage). Car will pull until the oil burns off. (Just a guess).

What are the channels? We can tune them and see if we're able to duplicate.

Yes. Not that I know of. Essentially its just a wire sticking into the air. Believe it's a center loaded coil, but in truth I've never looked inside one. That would be my first guess. Did you gey a click when you attached? None that I know of. Either the connection slipped out, the new radio went bad or something hapoened to the antenna wire. Did you pull on it and possibly break the connector ?

These engines are made either at Cleveland (USA) or Valencia, Spain (VEP). The 2.0 USA engines have aquired a very poor reputatiom for quality.

Looks tedious. Why didn't you use a wire wheel? Are you planning to spray it with Eastman rust converter (or something simular)? Frame looks fairy good. How bad was the body rusted?

Probably crawled up into the back seat bottom (where it meets the floor) and chewed through the back seat upright. Little dickens can squeeze through the smallest openings.