enigma-2

Could always put the radio into the "all-around speaker test mode" to determine if it's working properly.

Ford's “Active Noise Control” opens up in Sport mode to allow more engine noise into the cabin, which not only helps put drivers in the mood for spirited driving, but provides an audible cue for engine speed so that drivers know roughly where they are in the RPM range.Apr 9, 2018 It's a highly sought after value enhancement (cough). No known way to defeat it.

Local garage can pump the fluid through fill plug, using the same equipment they use to change the read differential. My Ford garage charges somewhere between $60-$80 (forget exact as usually have it done during oil change, etc.). 21 mph with 2008 isn't a bad mpg. Could be cold weather (warm up, short trips) or heavy snow (plowing will reduce mpg). Monitor over a longer period as I get somewhat similar.

With so many people reporting this problem, looks like you may have single-handily found the answer that Ford hasn't been able to answer.

Like I tell my wife, if you see it, and want it, don't wait. Can't tell you how many times she waited and they sold out. No car ever "just sits" on a lot. The sales staff routinely reviews every car on the lot and talks about getting rid of the lot queens. Two months on the lot, make them an offer. Lock in the sale now and go with financing. Then use the tax refund when it comes. (BTW, checks are slow this year, so it may take longer to get).

There were no pictures attached. Like to see your mod. (How do you feel about how the seat react in a collision? The FMVSS requires seats to withstand 8x 200 lb load, and a rear seat seats three, or 4,800 lb. reaction). I got involved in motor home seat failures when my company investigated a bad collision.

Personally, I'd immediately walk away from any car that had been altered, other than simple, cosmetic items. (I would consider removing the cars identity is NOT minor). Most of these guys think they know more than the manufacturer's engineers and never obtain a service manual when making mods. Plus they believe that aftermarket parts are tested and validated by professionals and therefore good mods. (Very, very few aftermarket LLC's actually do any testing and/or test under all conditions. When something goes wrong, poof!) Dealers know this and will usually address difficulties reselling vs. how much to offer for a trade in. (Engine tuning and suspension modifications usually cause permanent damage and no dealer wants to eat future a sale over someone's idea of "he can do better".) Exhaust mods will require to be brought to state requirements before resale so they will price that into their offer. (Not required for private sales). Dealers are regulated by state laws and cannot knowingly sell a car that does not meet state DOT regulations. Not only will he have to buy the car back, he also faces fines and possibly lawsuit. Plus, you could lose your factory warranty. Here's how Ford puts it (and you better believe they mean it). Debaging is no big deal, but, its a giant flag for the service department to look very, very closely to find what else you've done. "The installation or use of a non-Ford Motor Company part (other than a certified emissions part) or any part (Ford or non-Ford) designed for off-road use only installed after the vehicle leaves the control of Ford Motor Company, if the installed part fails or causes a Ford part to fail. Examples include, but are not limited to lift kits, oversized tires, roll bars, cellular phones, alarm systems, automatic starting systems and performance-enhancing powertrain components or software and performance ‘‘chips’’"

Just got a letter in the mail from Lincoln Motor Company, advising my 09 MKX is being recalled for a NEW AIRBAG recall. Previously, I had the PASSENGER side airbag replaced, this recall addresses the DRIVERS side (which previously Ford garage told me it was made by a different manufacturer and not part of tbe problem. But it seems that it has the same problems as the passenger side, i.e. in a crash it explodes sending shrouds of metal into your face, killing you (or merely ripping your face to shreads.) ? No parts in stock yet, expecting inventory in 3rd quarter 2021. (Unless your car interior is "camel " on which they have to special order - they had to require the manufacturer to special make the passenger's air bag due to color, last time. Two weeks extra).

I remember reading about something simular in the 150 forum. Perhaps this might help. (BTW, I thought that the SEL automically got the premium sound and it was the SE that got the standard audio)? https://www.f150forum.com/f30/if-you-have-sync3-want-get-more-bass-loudness-read-428963/

Just thinking out loud. You did pare your phone again (delete and add again) with the APIM after you upgraded Sync, didn't you?

Looks perfect!

Seen where people found the wire broken where the harness passes from the chassis into the door. (Inside the corrugated, rubber tube where the wires pass through when the door is open).

Thanks, I didn't know that. I've always been under the impression that a Class 1 & 2 hitch was 1-1/4", and Class 3 was 2". Thats always the way aftermarket (like Curt, etc.) sells them for the Edge & MKX. (Don’t recall ever reading where that was a requirement however). Got curious and looked on the Ford Towing Guide, but it didn't give the receiver size. Guess I never paid it any attention.

Isn't the car still under warranty ?

Misfire on cylinder #3. Could be a defective coil or injector. Personally I'd let the dealer fix it.

I was rear-ended couple of years ago and knocked one of sensors out. Damn thing beeped incessantly whenever I put the car in reverse. I was able to reach under the bumper and replace it in the opening (loose but sufficient to hold until repair). The body shop replaced the parts and painted the bumper without taking the bumper off. Other guys insurance paid, but I think it was around $750 for labor, new sensor, holder and paint (my MKX has the tricoat platium paint which is expensive to replace).

Don't know if you noticed it, you stated you need a 2" receiver but the factory tow option is a Class II hitch. (1-1/4" receiver). With an aftermarket hitch you won't get s 3,500 lb rating (if thats any concern later on). Note you can use a 1-1/4" to 2" adaptor so that shouldn't be a problem (especially with a bike rack). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008D8X7J2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_E5N857NNGQD0048RJK2Y but you would have to take the awd option.

Air, fuel, ignition. Doubt the plugs are the problem. AWD? Ever change the fluid? Tranny fluid change? -> mass air flow sensor dirty -> 35k miles on the air filter. (Filter can get dirty in just a few miles under severe conditions). -> injectors dirty? (Pour in a can of Techron Concentrate Plus Fuel System Cleaner).

This is a part thst rarely fails. How did you reach the conclusion that its failing? (Curious as to what to look for).

Dealer can do thi$$$. Which version of Sync did you upgrade from and to? (Would determine which version of Sync files you're looking for).

Couple of thoughts on this. As your FM is runnimg below the FM quieting level, the reception via the antenna is suspect. This is particularly true if your also experiencing poor reception on the AM band (AM is weaker and more directly influenced by a bad antenna). How's your AM reception ? The second possibly is your vehicle battery is going bad (low voltage). (Some radio's are sensitive to input voltage).

It's part of the fuel pump. (I think, I don't think there's a 2nd one). This video may help. (Did you do the test?)

This should help.

I believe its actually kerosene. (Only it smells better .. smile). But covering is definitely faster and easier. ?

Many codes are stored and can be read later. Perhaps Auto Zone? If it is the EPV I'd expect to see codes like P0446 or P0455 stored and the most likely condition would be a rough idle or rough running right after you fill up with gas. Probably get a check engine light as well. (Still, I really don't know if it could cause a no start on first try or not. Doesn't seem like it, but ..). Honestly I still suspect that its fuel related. Perhaps a bad check valve allowing the fuel to drain back. After the first try the fuel rail is pressurized and starts on the 2nd try. One way to test this theory is to turn the ignition "on" but not start. Leave it this way for a few seconds (to allow the pump to pressurize the line) then turn to start. If it starts, I'd zero in on a check valve (but it's not the only possible possibility).