enigma-2

http://www.ebay.com/itm/182724491447?

Personally it sounds to me like the AGC is failing, but it's also.possible that the fault lies somewhere else. You could also try a master reset. (Removing the fuse only forces the radio to reboit. Nothing in the EPROM is erased. A Master Reset clears the EPROM inside the radio. (You will lose all your settings, so you may wish to jot down certain items like favorite destinations (navigation radios), channel numbers, etc.). Vehicle must be in Park and running, not in Accessory mode. On your phone, choose Bluetooth from the Settings menu, then select SYNC and delete it. On the SYNC screen, press the Phone button. The SYNC screen will display either: Connecting No phone paired or connected Press the Arrows or Seek buttons until Return displays on the screen. Press OK. Press the Arrows or Seek buttons until Advanced displays on the screen. Press OK. Press the Arrows or Seek buttons until Master Reset displays on the screen. Press OK. A Confirmation message displays on the screen. Press OK. After completing a master reset you will need to pair your phone to SYNC.

Try a ACU diagnostics test. With the radio turned on and switched to either AM or FM, press and hold preset buttons 3 and 6. The radio will enter the speaker walk around test. (Be prepared for a loud tone coming from one of the speakers. If you wait a few seconds, it will stop and it will switch to the next speaker). At any time in tbe speaker test, and before it finishes, enter the diagnostics mode. If you do NOT have nsvigstion, press Preset button 1: the on-demand Self-Test. This button runs the on-demand self-test. Pressing the MENU DOWN button allows scrolling of any DTCs found during the test while in this menu. Preset button 2 = Display Continuous DTCs. This button enables viewing of any continuous DTCs that have been logged. Pressing the MENU UP button allows scrolling of any DTCs while in this menu. While continuous DTCs are being displayed, pressing the EJECT button will clear all present DTCs. Preset button 3 = Signal Strength Test. This button displays the signal strength. Preset button 4 = Software Version Display. This button displays the audio unit software version. Pressing the MENU UP button allows scrolling of all audio subsystem software versions while in this menu. Preset button 5 = Display Test. This test illuminates all the display segments for 5 seconds, then turns all segments off. Preset button 6 = Configuration Status. This button enables audio unit configuration status. Pressing the MENU button displays the ACM part number while in this menu. To exit the self-diagnostic mode, turn the audio unit off or turn the key OFF. If the concern remains and the fault is not detected, GO to Symptom Chart - Audio System to continue diagnostics. If you DO have navigation, press the end test button on the screen and select the test from the available menu. Ruming this test may reveal if any defect codes have been triggered and stored in the ACU (radio).

Take a look at all your fuses in the power distribution panel (in the engine compartment) and see if anything looks fried - especially fuse #26. Is it throwing any codes? Was reading in a different forum where a person had a simular problem and the Ford garage traced it to cam sensor's.

From Scotton of Dallas Paint Correction and Detailing. (This one really surprised me).

From Scott of Dallas Paint Correction & Detailing.

Youtube video by Scott of Dallas Paint Correction & Detailing.

Haven't used this, but good brand, looks interesting

One of the biggest problems I've faced in the heat of summer was evaporation of the water out of a battery. The following video by EricTheCarGuy details tracking down leakage current across the top of a battery, adding water and checking the connections. Good basic stuff (except I would use the Solar BA-5 or BA-7 as the loaf tester).

Yup. $150 is the standard price for map update and Gracenotes. Best map program I've used is Google Maps. (And it's free). Used it in Seattle couple of weeks ago, kept updating on traffic flow, accidents, etc. Don't care for thd Garmin. Have a drawer with several used Garmins. Don't want another device hanging on my windshield if I don't need it. So nice having the big screen in the dash with a map tracking your progress. I've found Here Maps (Ford/Lincoln) is usually a couple if years behind. You can go to there website and file an update for a particular road. I did this in the past and they updated one road in the next update and ignored one other. (Might be in the current. Not convinced to buy hus yet).

Brutal ... Does lulabelle have black leather strap on seat covers and vodka for coolant? lol

What's an owner's manual?

Can check here ever couple of months for when they finally get around to updating your maps. http://ford.navigation.com/home/en_US/FordNA/USD

On my gen 1, delay power comes in through fuse 41, with addl power through fuse 28 for start and fuse 39 for vbatt (run power). They change this on later gens?

If you have the AWD, don't forget to pump out and refill the PTU. From a personal point, I forgot to get the rear axle fluid changed, get it done next oil change.

Just looked on Ebay and seen one for $975 for level 2 trim. That's just crazy.

I replaced my battery last year, went to Ford. Warranty is 3 years, pro-rated after the 3 year period for Motorcraft battery's. (Pro-rate is only worth a cup of coffee however).

<$400 for a pair of new ones on Ebay.http://m.ebay.com/itm/2011-2012-2013-2014-Ford-Edge-LED-Light-Tube-Tail-Lights-Brake-Lamps-Left-Right/361902275692?fits=Make%3AFord%7CModel%3AEdge&hash=item54430e7c6c%3Ag%3AgeMAAOSwr%7ElYnnII&_trkparms=gclientid%3DFGedgoICBa7VQcNydJbDuew1Tlj76BiGUzFhJrjc3b5_KTPm2U8LcVNcBgPbqV34&_trksid=p2489528.m4335.l8656 $330 ea for 15-17 http://m.ebay.com/itm/2015-2016-2017-Ford-Edge-Right-Passenger-Side-Tail-Lamp-Light-Assembly-new-OEM/232175794713?fits=Make%3AFord%7CModel%3AEdge&hash=item360ec17a19%3Ag%3AogsAAOSwj85YQZOB&_trkparms=gclientid%3DFGedgoICBa7VQcNydJbDuew1Tlj76BiGUzFhJrjc3b5_KTPm2U8LcVNcBgPbqV34&_trksid=p2489528.m4335.l8656

You can replace the PCM for $250 here: https://carcomputerexchange.com/ford/edge/2008-ford-edge-3-5l-pcm-ecm-engine-computer/prod_1911.html New coils and plugs for $60 (these may not be the exact ones you need, but should give you a starting point) http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/252596204201?dispItem=1&ul_ref=http%253A%252F%252Frover.ebay.com%252Frover%252F1%252F711-117182-37290-0%252F2%253Fmpre%253Dhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.ebay.com%25252Fitm%25252Flike%25252F252596204201%25253Fchn%25253Dps%252526dispItem%25253D1%2526itemid%253D252596204201%2526targetid%253D325140202745%2526device%253Dm%2526adtype%253Dpla%2526googleloc%253D9016241%2526poi%253D%2526campaignid%253D852943157%2526adgroupid%253D42890897225%2526rlsatarget%253Dpla-325140202745%2526abcId%253D1128846%2526merchantid%253D113446445%2526gclid%253DCj0KCQjwxdPNBRDmARIsAAw-TUlXca0LjbOGS7MhOyiK7z2A7Tu2smbptrR31GISLJrvORf7pfR-e2oaAv-JEALw_wcB%2526srcrot%253D711-117182-37290-0%2526rvr_id%253D1306571668986&chn=ps&dispItem=1&ul_ref=http%253A%252F%252Frover.ebay.com%252Frover%252F1%252F711-117182-37290-0%252F2%253Fmpre%253Dhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.ebay.com%25252Fitm%25252Flike%25252F252596204201%25253Fchn%25253Dps%252526dispItem%25253D1%2526itemid%253D252596204201%2526targetid%253D325140202745%2526device%253Dm%2526adtype%253Dpla%2526googleloc%253D9016241%2526poi%253D%2526campaignid%253D852943157%2526adgroupid%253D42890897225%2526rlsatarget%253Dpla-325140202745%2526abcId%253D1128846%2526merchantid%253D113446445%2526gclid%253DCj0KCQjwxdPNBRDmARIsAAw-TUlXca0LjbOGS7MhOyiK7z2A7Tu2smbptrR31GISLJrvORf7pfR-e2oaAv-JEALw_wcB%2526srcrot%253D711-117182-37290-0%2526rvr_id%253D1306571668986&ul_noapp=true .

I agree with you, better to be safe than sorry. What kind of warranty do they offer? .

Ah ha, do I see a valve guide replacment video in the near future? lol

Best bet looks like tapping off the radio power. Radio stays on for 20 minutes or so after you power off, and located close to front power outlet.

What do you plan to do with it? I power my radar detector off my rearview mirror circuit. It power's on & off with the ignition and stays on 20 minutes with the power delay or when a door opened. You can buy a custom harness (various lengths, made by Mirrortap) that fits your mirror and device for $40. Takes 3 Minutes to install. Here's an example of what I'm talking about. MirrorTap MTX Series, RJ-11, 15" Long, Radar Detector Power Cord With 2 Amp In-Line Fuse, Military Grade Taps, Made in USA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L2SVV2U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ImfTzbPR0XMSM .

Bobstheoilguy.com did research on most all oil filters a few years back, tested them, tore them apart, etc. I remember that Motorcraft was 2ND best, along with AC Delco, but not MoPar (which is an aftermarket filter rebanded). Mobie One was the best, but at $12 or $15 .... WIX wad good as well as NAPA Gold. Fram was the worst (total garbage), as well as all the cheap stuff you buy at Wal Mart. (Allowed dirty oil to leak past, cheap construction, cheap materials). All the other stuff was average. I think K&N is overrated. Motorcraft is the best quality you will find at a good price. (No surprise there). Why spend more when it doesn't do anything more? (Assuming your changing your oil filter on schedule).

3.5L engine noted for water pump failures (allows coolant to leak inside the engine, diluting the oil and killing the engine. One good way to prevent is to change coolant on schedule. Plastic guides wearing on timing chains. (Again do all scheduled maintenance is best defense). 2.xL direct inject turbo engines noted for carbon buildup on back side of intake valves. Several have installed Catch Cans with varying results. Fuel tanks corroding and leaking gas. (Recalls issued). Air bags needing replacing. (Recall). Brake boosters failing. (Ford replacing on several different years). (What did I forget?) All-in-all, a very reliable car.