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Those two tires are basically the same diameter and revs per mile, so as long at the wheels are up to spec as well (offset, width, etc) then they would be fine.

I'm selling my Racechip GTS w/bluetooth because I sold my vehicle.  This unit is programmed for the 2014 - 2021 Ford Edge ST.  I used it for about 2,300 miles and it's in perfect condition.  Brand new it costs $499 with bluetooth.  With the GTS edition, I'm eligible for a retune so this module can be reprogrammed for the 2.0L ecoboost engine.  The reprogramming includes new cable (if needed).  Anyway, while I was using it, I noticed a significant difference in throttle response and just overall power.  With the GTS, it's putting out nearly 400hp!  The chip adds 53hp and 73lb/ft torque and shockingly, I got 3mpg BETTER MILEAGE running it at level 7 100% of the time.  Granted- your experience may be different based on your driving style, but I got on it quite a bit. You can change the level of programming from 0-7 inside the cab (thanks bluetooth!).  I personally averaged 21mpg with an average daily commute of just over 50 miles and about 40% city/60%hwy driving.   I have the original box and instrucitons along with all the cable ties and stuff needed to install it. I have other pictures but the forum's restrictions on photo uploads is quite restricting.

Currently running 245/60R18 winters and looking to pick up new rims and tires in the spring.  With any tire and/or rim size calculator for the SEL trim only shows 18" or lower for sizes but if I select Sport trim I can choose 20's.  Should I be safe grabbing 245/50R20 tires and rims?

Morgant513, I am guessing if you have the exact same issue, you have tried to tighten the trim screws holding the fabric liner to the fender well. As you can see from previous posts, this solved our issue. Please provide more detail if your issue is different.

I know this thread is a few years old but I also have a 2018 SEL and am wondering if a guy could pull the lightbar and tail lights from a sport or titanium and swap to a SEL?

Someone please help!  2008 Ford Edge Limted I have had 3 different alternators put in within the past year, all brand new along with a new battery.  Since the 1st replacement, it randomly surges. Hopefully you can see what I am talking about in this video. Randomly, the lights will go bright then back to normal. Its fast and there is no pattern to it. When I have it tested, everything comes back perfect.  I am at a loss!! Someone, anyone please point me in a direction.   20260126_203625_1.mp4

Hello all, hopefully the experts can help me here. I have a new to me 2013 Edge 3.5 AWD SEL standard key ignition Sync 2 audio/nav. Sitting in the car, key in the ignition, start the car as normal, key returns to RUN position, Sync module lit up, everything appears to function normally, no audio from any audio source. Move the key back to ACC position, car shuts off, radio and all other source audio returns, move key to OFF position, audio continues to function normally. Remove key from ignition, re-insert, audio cuts off until key is moved to RUN position and then back to ACC or OFF, car does not need to be started for audio to return. I currently do not have any codes in the APIM or ACM. At the advice of an audio guy I met, at one time I had codes in the APIM, B1215:00-28, U016A:00-28, U0184:00-28, he recommended ACM replacement, I did that, no luck. I did a clear codes and on demand self-test with Forscan, currently no codes in the APIM or ACM, but I've also not driven the car much, so I don't know if there is needed drive cycles to bring any codes back. Any help with this is appreciated.    Start issues, in trying to trouble shoot the no audio condition, The key insertion leading to the audio cutting out, led me to believe there could possibly be a short in the ignition switch. So, I went after that, as I was opening up the dash to get to the switch, I noticed I was not the first one in there. I pulled the switch out and found an added wire spliced from pin 7 of the ignition switch, IGNITION/START circuit, ran directly out through the firewall and underneath the under hood fuse block.  I flopped the fuse block over, that wire is tied directly to a wire that used to be tied to one of the main pins of the start circuit relay, they cut the wire just below the underside of the fuse block and spliced the car side to the wire coming from under the dash. I've tried connecting it back as it's supposed to be, car will not start until its wired back to the jumper wire.    I don't entirely know if the 2 situations are tied together, or just separate issues. The audio I believe is somehow tied to the PCM wakeup circuit, through testing I determine key insertion activates a pin in the switch that leads to BCM fuse 18, Keypad illumination, Brake shift interlock, Start button LED, Passive anti-theft system, Powertrain control module wake-up, Second row power enable, the fuse has been tested and is good. The no start unless hot wired condition, I'm kind of at a loss on. I did another on demand self test of all the modules in the car today, in the BCM I found 2 codes that hadn't previously been there, C0040:12, C1D00:11, those come back to brake light switches best I can tell. I had already swapped the main brake light switch with a known good one and that didn't seem to make a change. So not sure where those codes came from.    If anyone has any suggestions on where to look, or what to troubleshoot, or what to get into, please let me know. I purchased this car for my parents as theirs is falling apart, so I'm going through this one trying to work out all the kinks so I can get it to them. Any help is appreciated and gladly willing to pay for meaningful conversation and advice. I know it's my first post here, but I've been on different forums for years, been wrenching 40 years, I'm pretty handy, but sometimes these electronics get me, And I despise parts changers and chasing blindly down paths that lead nowhere, so some pointers on where to look or test next, please send them along. Thank you.   Jim

Purge valve will set CEL. Is the check engine light on?

Fuses control the PCM.    I recently watched a video on YouTube where the mechanic tracked an identical problem to the connector in the tailgate, that connected to the rear wiper. It appeared that water leaked through the rear wiper seal (where the shift exits the tailgate body.)   Water leaked through the deteriorated seal and dripped down onto the connector. (Think drip, drip, drip.)   This caused green crusties (corrosion) to form between adjacent connections on the connector (on the outside, at the top of the connector.) This fed the 'wiper keep alive current' to an adjacent circuit, which backfed the leakage voltage back to the fuse panel in the engine compartment; which kept the PCM alive. (Took him several hours to track down.)   He was getting just 3 volts (or something lower than battery voltage) in the backfeed; which didn't make any sense.    He found that the crusties acted like a resistor, allowing a reduced amount of battery voltage to be applied to an adjacent wire in the connector, that should be dead when the car was off.    I'd have a close look at the rear wiper seal. If it looks like there's a microscopic gap where the seal exits, I'd get suspicious and pop off the hatchback interior cover and look at the connector. Your car is the right age for a deteriorated wiper body seal.   .!@##$ spellchecker...

Have you solved this yet? If not, I'd suggest taking a close look at the VVT solenoid that was replaced. It is most likely due an improper seal seat.    And yes, a stuck PVC valve can cause a buildupnof pressure, forcing oil to leak at several places.