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Are you replacing the CCM? Why not just copy all AsBuilt data from old to new. Then calibrate the CCM.

I think most get a used steering wheel, and depending on the wheel, just pull off the switches, back cover, and wiring and put them on their existing wheel, if the one they get is in worse shape than theirs, or doesn't have the right cruise switches.   While the switches are available my themselves new or used, I don't think the rear cover is, many steering wheels I see for sale used on eBay they remove the paddle shifters, many have the rear cover with the holes but no paddle/switches.

Welcome.   On the purge valve - I've followed a similar path, replaced the complete assembly with a 3rd party brand, replaced just the solenoid and both had a very short life - I'm on an OEM one for about 7 months with no issues.

I've had a Code: P04F0 - EVAP System High Load Purge Line 'A' Performance for a while now, on and off since January 2026.   I have a vLinker FS in the OBD port at all times and use FORScan Lite on my phone. This is on a 2022 Edge SEL.   Initially, I traced it to a faulty purge valve, so I replaced it with the whole hose & purge valve assembly mid-February and the check engine light went away, for a whole 2 months (approximately).   Mid-April the check engine light came back, same code, so I bought just the Purge Valve and replaced it, even though it didn't seem like the old (new) one was bad, then cleared the code and everything was fine, for a couple of weeks anyway, then the check engine light was back. A bunch of research later and I went to the next possible part and replaced the Vapor Canister Vent Solenoid in May. Unfortunately, that still didn't fix anything so I broke down and bought a smoke machine. I ran a test through the gas cap and found the smoke leaking from only one place, the top drivers side of the gas tank.   I have not dropped the tank yet as I don't have a lift and I'm not sure how to go about it in my driveway. The question is, could this possibly be something simple like the seal on the drivers side fuel pump is bad or could it be something more nefarious?   I've also noticed that the code doesn't show up when the gas tank is between 3/4 - full, only once it's below 3/4 does the code appear and pretty much every time I start the car.   Any ideas? I'm getting pretty tired of having to clear code anytime I get in the car.   Thanks, -Trevor

For anyone that did this by buying the switches, the wire harness and the rear cover for the steering wheel, how do the paddles bolt to the wheel?  I didn’t get screws for them but I don’t know if they are needed.

can any one help me figure out how to update the vin? top photo is new working c-cm from a mkx. second smaller photo is my oem c-cm module. my vin is  2FMTK4AP3FBC40639   5LMTJ3DH5HUL21198 this is the mkx vin  the new module is EJ7T-9G768-AF as ford says this is the new updated version. now that i know this is from a mkx i may have to install different calibration. wanna make sure i have the hex changes in correctly before trying to spend money to get the calibration updated for the ford edge. 

Thank you for the information.

After all this time I swapped out the FCIM on Saturday and programmed it in using the values from the previous one. Now I need some hot weather again to test it; too bad the forecast is for rain this week.   After taking inspiration from here: https://www.f150forum.com/f118/fcim-failure-537044/ I also checked all the lights and the connections on the liftgate as best as I could/know how but did not find anything.   We'll wait and see what happens.

Calipers, Rotors, Pads, etc. are the same on an Edge ST with 21" wheels or 20" wheels so there will be no issues.

Something seemed off last trip. My giant cup no longer required being pushed into the cup holder, and it wobbled.   Come to find out the bottom on the front of was sagging, the fingers pushed out, and the rear one was lose and the rubber bottom had the tab out of reach between the pieces. Driving through dust storms and living in the desert these piano black panels are terrible looking in a day.   So after pulling out the side trim of the center console, pulling up on the center console at the rear and front, and disconnecting the auto Stop/Start button, removed the cup holder section from the console. The sonic welded spots had all broken. elastic/silicone/rubber band that provides the resistance for the fingers that grip your cup(s) I just used a 2 part epoxy after roughing up the surfaces. I have the feeling I will be doing this again soon, I am going to get POM rivets for that now that I see what I am up against. Yes, I forgot to install the band before putting the bottom back on, so I had to get creative with it. These are $25 from online Ford dealers, so if I screw up too bad next time I will just buy a new one. But the posts and welds are pretty bad.