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First thing you need to do is pull the key off the top and compare the Ford part numbers and frequency ID codes.  If the fobs don’t match, it won’t work.  Second thing that may have to be considered, is the Escape fob still programmed to the Escape?  Since you are trying to add a third key to your Edge, you can DIY and the worst case scenario, it won’t program to your Edge because it is tied to another vehicle.  I am willing to bet that any used fobs need to be unmatched from their vehicles before being able to be learned to a new vehicle.   It makes sense because, back to my situation, I lost a key and two are required to do any programming.  I had to go in and delete all old keys (mark as lost) and program my remaining OE key along with my new replacement. 

Any explanation without testing would be a thumb-suck.   Testing is what's needed, and the "Autozone" testing suggestion was meant to be an example of the service such stores offer, and most likely some in Canada do the same.   A dead/discharged battery could be the symptom of a failed/failing battery or a parasitic drain or a charging system failure.

Remember years ago when I had a bad battery the engine will turn slow and eventually will start if I was lucky. However with the current problem I have in my Edge after the first few stops I did the engine turn once or twice and started like new but in my last stop the battery was dead. That I don’t understand how the battery went dead instead of going dead "slowly" meaning it will turn the engine but at very low RPM.   Any explanation to make me understand what went wrong?

Thanks for the tip however searching there are no Autozone outlets in my area (Quebec). I'm charging my battery now and it looks like its completely dead so there must be something wrong in the charging system. My charger has 4 indicating lights to indicate the progress and after 2 hours it still blinks on light one (when the 4th light blinks the battery is fully charged).

Ah, yeah, maybe time to move on.  Those nickels and dimes tend to add up pretty quick, especially in todays challenging economy.

I agree with enigma on the K&N cabin filter.  I tried one on my Dodge Charger, and it let in so many odors, it was kinda worthless.  Back to a factory type filter, and most of the odors were blocked out again.  I had the K&N engine air filter in my old gas F-250, and it did fine for that truck.  I never bought another filter, just cleaned and oiled as instructed.  It did not increase HP or gas mileage, or anything like that.  It did have a pretty neat roar on acceleration, but other than that, it just saved me a little money on replacement filters.  I find it just easier nowadays to stick with manufacturer recommended filters, and don't try and mess with the aftermarket stuff anymore.

Get the battery and charging system checked at a place like Autozone - typically free of charge for the test.

2016 Edge Titanium, FWD, 2.0L EcoBoost (leased new for 4 years and then bought my lease). Always serviced at the dealer, no problems, change the battery myself about 2 years ago. In the winter I have a digital charger and used it occasionally but not in the summer. Went out today shopping, stopped in few places and in my last stop when I went to start - no luck, says something like "...power is off to conserve battery....". Friend suggest to boost and did it and started like new. Saturday today so dealer is closed but planing to go on Monday. Car is always parked inside my garage with all doors closed and windows open. Any ideas to trouble shoot myself? Thanks

OK, my opinion. Remove that K&N cabin air filter and throw it in the trash..!   Bold statement, here's why I have a problem with K&N cabin air filters.    There are actually several negative problems associated with K&N cabin air filters (as compared to standard and premium, disposable paper  filters.)   While they "do" increase HVAC airflow and are reusable, these are not really a good thing.   K&N focus heavily on maximizing airflow. In doing so, the mesh design allows more ultra-fine dust and pollen to bypass the filter compared to a regular paper media.   They dont have an activated carbon layer as found in standard "premium" filters. (The K& N is a premium filter.) With no carbon layer, they cannot neutralize outside exhaust smells or odors.   They don't have a HEPA rating (a.k.a. they don't filter out pollen, small, tight dust, mold spores, and exhaust.   Their expensive. A standard disposable paper filter costs between $10, while a K&N cabin filter typically runs between $40 to $60.    While they are designed to be reused by cleaning, you can't  wash it with regular soap and water..! This will destroy its "special" properties. You must purchase a special K&N Cabin Air Filter Refresher Kit for roughly $15 to $20. This destroys any chance to break even for at least 4 years. Possibly 5.   Suppose its minor, but replacing a standard filter takes 20 minutes. (I can change mine in 5.)   But, cleaning a K&N requires spraying it down, cleaning it with the special K&N Cabin Air Filter Refresher Kit, rinsing it out, require a special electrostatic refresher spray after every wash to attract more dust and then letting it completely air-dry. Then it can be reinstalled. A 10-minute project suddenly turns into an hour or more.   No airflow arrows on filters to indicate which side faces airflow. This allows the filter to be accidentally installed backwards. (Big complaint from the Toyota forum on Facebook)   "The high-volume mesh material can occasionally introduce a faint whistling or whining noise through your dashboard vents when the AC fan is set to its highest speed." (Again from Facebook, 2016- 2023 Toyota Tacoma Owners)   I just bought a brand new filter for my MKX, (new brand to the market.) It's a "Febreze" Pureflow, which is supposed to block 99% of all pollution and dust,  (wife has asthma), carbon layer to block carbon monoxide, and a baking soda layer to neutralize odors. (The Febreze is unsented.) $20 on Amazon. Haven't installed it yet, we'll see.        

Keep it to one thread.   Use an OBDII dongle and Forscan to scan for codes.