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Welcome. 14.8v seems a little high. When you replaced the battery did you reset the BMS (Battery Monitoring System)? It could also be a parasitic drain - do a search for that and you'll find a few good YouTube videos on how. Places like AutoZone have testers that check the CCA, Cranking Voltage, and Charge rates - have them do that.
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Wanting to spend a few hundred dollars wisely? Drive through the poor section of your town and drop 30 $10 dollar bills out the window or, pick an Angel off the Christmas Tree @ the mall. Watch the video before you spend your hard earned $$$$!
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Anyone have this problem? I just put a new battery in about 3 weeks ago. Wife called yesterday and was stuck at a QT. Said car was dead. Got there and like before when I replaced battery there were no dash lights or interior lights. So I jumped the car and it started just fine. I then drove it home (20 mi) and turned car off. Then decided to go to auto zone and have alternator tested. Turned car of there and they did a battery test (not sure kid who tested it got good connection since he was having problems with meter) and it tested bad. So I pulled battery and took it back to Costco to have it tested to get another battery. It tested as 12.2 volts and 860 CCA available on a 660 CCA battery. This morning started car and everything good. Stuck a volt meter on battery before start and it was 12.2 volts then started car and it read 14.8 volts, so don’t think it’s the alternator. Any ideas were to check next. This seems to be very intermittent.
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Yes, i saw a youtube video about that oil supply line for the drivers side turbo on 2.7TT engines... The weird thing is that I see no smoke coming out the exhaust, nor oil marks in the garage floor... Im planing to get the gasket for the valve cover and maybe that oil supply line.... -
I was able to to finalize it last weekend. Each radar must be connected to MS can, power and gnd. Indicator led pins are in mirror connectors. Activation in IPC and door modules. Works perfectly. -
Probably not the issue, but something to think about or get ideas. There was a TSB for the 2013-2015 FWD 3.5 EcoBoost (link) that fixed the smoking with changing the PCV cover adapter. -
I posted here back in January. A handful of us have chatted within here, on other FB groups etc. Something we all reported on was it was more apparent on consuming when the vehicle was idling or remote started. I did 3 rounds of oil consumption tests paid for by the dealer. I noticed that the one time the vehicle lost half a quart, within a 1000 mile span. Otherwise everything was in spec on oil consumption. After tons of analysis and paying attention to when sometime the blue/white smoke is visible I noticed when the vehicle idles for say 30 mins. I can drive parking lot speeds and get some nice smoke, the smoke doesn't linger to bad, and is certainly not thick or alarming. I believe its a turbo pooling the oil then burning it. Why it's so intermittent I couldn't tell you. I reduced my idling and remote starts and haven't noticed the issue. Removed the catch-can just in case, no change, replaced the PCV valve, no change. I've ruled out the easy things, a TSB exists for a turbo oil supply line for f150, been considering replacing my line but havent looked deep into it to see if the part changed at all for the Edge
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I think there have been discussions of paddle shifters working in D on this forum somewhere, but still, I agree that Ford likes to make things more complicated and obscure than you would expect for a car manufacturer of this size.
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By Wubster100 · Posted
Ford still does this today. They write features in the owners manual, but they don't actually exist in the vehicle. This can be seen in the 2019-2024 Edge owners manual with auto hold and the vehicle distance indicator. The solution to auto hold is that you need a FCIM with the auto hold button. The solution to the distance indication is a simple AsBuilt change. Because the feature is listed in the owners manual and found on the explorer sport, there is a very high chance that you can get it to work. -
Hi Caden, thanks for the update. I did the same thing as you described - there are three pins missing in the connector that plugs into clockspring. And then you need to add wires from the clockspring to etiher the shifter connector (which we did) or elsewhere down the line towards the PCM. However, I believe there should be a live in drive feature for the Edge sport with the 3.7 engine. At least the 2011 Ford Edge owners manual (https://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/catalog/owner_guides/11edgog3e.pdf) indicates so on page 257: "Temporary manual control is provided when pulling the paddles with the gearshift in the D (Drive) position." The PCM for 3.5 and 3.7 should be the same hardware wise, however, there may be differences in software which I have not been able to identify. The wiring diagrams are identical for the 3.5 and 3.7 versions, with different parts of wiring being actually installed - shifter knob +- button vs the paddle shifters. The same exact pins on the PCM are used for up and downshifts for both versions of the engine, which leads me to believe that the only difference is in the software between the two and that this difference enables the live in drive feature. The sport version has the paddle shifters active in both the D and M gears. I spoke to HP tuners and they (about a year ago) did not have this feature tracked down and enabled for modification in their software, only for the turbocharged versions of the engine, which uses a different PCM (e.g in Ford Explorer Sport). Vlad
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